Norms Restoration - 31 Seater Projects

1952 AEC Regal III [2547]

2018

Body May

Norman Julian 3 May
Because I used a hardwood timber that was 19mm thick and wasn't really flush with the staircase I looked around for an alternative.
I ended up buying 40mm maple and planed it down to the 22mm I needed to start with. There are a few reasons I revisited this job.
Because I have started sheeting I needed these door frame returns finished and on so when I remake body skin I needed the folded returns to fit right.
The other reason is now that the steps are done I can put the doors back up for a trial fit.







Norman Julian 4 May
The stair treads got a good 3 coats of primer before being screwed down.
A good coat of bitumen paint and then malthoid over the top of this will guarantee moisture free bottom tread.
Norman Julian 5 May
This isn't an update of what's advancing.
That will happen a little later.
I just wanted to give a little advice to those wishing to do something like this yourself.
If you ever come across cardboard cartons never throw them out.
Cut them up into various sizes and keep them stored away.
They are good for making patterns or templates and you will at some stage make a few and you will go hunting for cardboard to make something.
The other thing is when you purchase sheets of steel or get a job folded or cut ask the guys there for small scraps. They are probably too small for the merchant and they may give them to you.
They will be very useful in you resto. Just a few tips.

Norman Julian
These are scraps I picked up.




Norman Julian
Template made for odd shapes
Craig Parkinson
Why are you doing everything in gal sheet when it was aliminium.
One it added alot extra weight to the bus and secondly have fun painting over it and keeping paint attached to it.
Avsie Paul
Thanks for the advice, it's the little things like that which you'd never considered until you get into it, cheers
Norman Julian 5 May
Just wanted to make one thing perfectly clear, that this project is being restored to original as much as possible. Where there was steel sheeting used that is what I am using.
The entire bus is sheeted in aluminium on the outside and that is exactly what I am doing.
Remarks to the contrary are false.
The other thing is contrary to some peoples beliefs you can paint galvanised steel quite successfully I might add with the right preparation.
Just because a job wasn't prepped properly years ago doesn't mean others will do the same.
I'm not sure why there are negative comments.
Where there are people willing to put lots of time into restorations makes icons like these old classics still around for our kids and grand kids to see and remember what it was like in the good old days.
End of rant.
John Clarke
I was surprised at one comment, in particular.
Charles Shipway
I agree with you Norman on every aspect of the word Authentic Restorations aren’t
If short cuts are taken
The finished product should be extremely close to the original build most important forget the rest and remember the best is stick to your plan
Stuart Gale
Well said Norm... at the end the day its YOUR bus YOUR PROJECT and YOUR money paying for it... these purist a$$holes should drop off and be grateful for the opportunity to see a man doing an amazing job with his project.. keep powering on with it Norm seeing your progress is keeping me motivated with mine... even though its not a bus (sadly).
Catherine Norman
I must have missed something been busy working today all I know Norm is you have inspired me and taught me many techniques.
Norman Julian
Glad to be of help, Cath.
Avsie Paul
Take no notice mate.
When they pay out and put all the work in then and only then they have a right to judge
Carle Gregory
agree with previous posts, its your project and like some of the 70s race-cars, what do you call original as they came in different liveries and specs, how long was your bus in service?
and
how many running changes did it have? so what is original and besides it is only experts who will know, the general public will like it for what it is not the miniscle part that isnt
John Olde
Brian LeQuesne
Well said Norman. Keep up the great work on her.
I for one enjoy the project updates.
At the end of the day, she is YOUR Bus and how you choose to restore her and what methodology is applied, is purely your prerogative.
Ignore the knockers mate.
Norman Julian Thanks for all the comments my friends.
Gregor Neil Robertson
Some of us don’t see these comments.
No matter.
Even at my age (76) it still amazes me that there are grown men (and women) who seem to have nothing to do but make adverse criticism of genuine improvers and creative workers like yourself.
In my experience these rotten apples go through life and never learn to behave decently.
They are an utter waste of your time
Norman Julian 6th May·
The last of these little jobs that I had to do before sheeting.
These wheel arch supporting pieces I had forgotten to put back on after taking the old rusted ones off.
The other thing was screwing down the stair treads.
Had problems with the screws breaking so I had to get a bigger gauge metal thread to make it work.
What I do when screwing down timber to metal is to pre drill first through both surfaces all the holes then take the timber off and clean both surfaces down and then put the timber back on and screw it down.
It's amazing how much timber and metal filings you get between the surfaces.
If you leave it there after a while the shavings will rust and work their way through the paint and rust whats underneath.



Gregor Neil Robertson
Beautiful job.
You’ve the patience of a saint.



Avsie Paul
Do you use any rust proofing as you put things back together
Norman Julian
Originally the steel was just undercoated.
The Chassis would have been painted in a silver fros or chromium type of product over in England.
I did the same but with the chassis and steel from the floor down is primed and 2 coats of black paint.
Unfortunately todays primer doesn't contain lead (Australia) which you could have gotten away with back when you could buy it.
Now though primer is only good as an undercoat.
After a while if used on it is own it allows moisture in and promotes rust.
It can't be used in the open by itself.
Avsie Paul
Thanks for taking the time to reply mate,,
I keen to learn hopefully for the future
Norman Julian
My pleasure.
Gregor Neil Robertson
And then there are particularly good strong paints that can be overcoated.
You get what you pay for.
More is better and worth the extra.
I’ve forgotten the names of the best stuff but I’m happy with Hammerite products, it’s always done the job for me. Just a single coat.
Really tough.
Avsie Paul
Thanks mate, I'm doing a Bedford M type at the moment to.
Treated the chassis with rust killer then red oxide, two coats of enamel followed by a coat of vanish,
Norman Julian 8th May
Picked up the flooring today.
130 lineal metres here.
135mm x 19mm.
I just love the smell of new cypress.
Norman Julian
I could have saved a bundle and used ply because it does get covered up by bitumen paint and malthoid, but that's not original.
I know cypress isn't either but it's still pine as was the original.
Charles Shipway
How about when the flooring is finished you send me over an of cut so I can experience a good sniff again it’s a long time since seeing. OR enjoying the smell of cypress it is a very distinctive aroma I agree
Norman Julian
Haha yeah Charles!
I just had a shower and still have the aroma on my hands.
Western cedar is another wonderful aroma.
Norman Julian 16th May
I have been working on and of on the fluid flywheel cover for the last couple of days.
I didn't know what thickness flooring I was going to use till last week.
The 2 old ones are not the same as you can see

Julian Mathieson
That has come up a treat.....
Funny for some reason I always thought that the AEC brand on the dome was Red.
Black makes more sense.
Thankyou for sharing your progress Norman Julian.
Norman Julian
Actually Julian
I haven't seen any of these painted at all.
I just wanted to give it a lift.
Steve Hardie
Youvereally done a great job Norman are you going clear laquer it in time
Norman Julian 17th May
A dry fit as they say.
I made this cover a little different to the original.
The original wasn't made to the angle of the steel floor frame because the floor wasn't either.
When I remade this cover I made it to the same angle as to what the steel frame is.
Now when I cut the timber of the floor to fit the cover it will be screwed down onto the angle properly instead of missing it in some areas.
I am surprised it wasn't noticed a long time ago.
Because I tinkered around with the bulkhead wall frame and took some of the variations in plumbness out of it and replaced the GALVANISED STEEL on the bulkhead wall, the AEC cover now sits hard up against the bulkhead.
The new aluminium stripping for the moment is just sitting in position waiting to be screwed down.
I also am replacing the steel ring pulls to lift the cover up.
These ring pulls have to be resessed into the timber.

Norman Julian
The aluminum strips over hang the cover all the way round by about 8mm as to hide where it joins the floor.
You can't see it in this picture but under this cover at the back is another piece of wood screwed to the underside.
It acts as a lock and when the cover is put in position that piece locks on the steel frame and when the cover is pushed at the front it locks in position.
Stuart Brown
That looks rather flash now
Norman Julian 17 May
I have been held up doing more paneling because I needed these two items.
Does anyone know what I want to make with them?
Neville Humpherys
A skirt
Norman Julian
Idiot!
Neville Humpherys
Heard you are into rubber
Norman Julian
It's vinyl not rubber!
Neville Humpherys
OK your cheap
Bob Gioia
Piping for wheel arches.
Norman Julian
Ha ha.
Thought it was too easy.
David Meddows
Floor covering.
James Leonard Garrod
A rope for me to hang you with and a dirty old bit of lino to roll your rotten carcass in before I plant you in my backyard with that other Idiot.
Gary Russell
Wait until he finishes the buses first.
Norman Julian
James Leonard Garrod.
You are a nasty piece of work.
James Leonard Garrod
You're Fertiliser!
Garth Taylor
Piping for the mudguards?
Norman Julian 18th May
I did a little more work on the flywheel cover.
I countersunk the holes before drilling and screwing down the aluminium strips.
I also recessed the ring pulls below the surface of the timber.
I came up with a 45mm hole saw and drilled down about 6mm and then used a slightly smaller spade bit and then chiseled it out.
The other thing I did was polished up the speedo cable. Yes I know what you are thinking and yes you would be right in thinking that but with the rest looking fresh and new looking I couldn't let a crusty oily baked and rusty cable back on.
It needs another buff but I have worn down the buffing pad.



Brian Blunt
You polished the speedo cable??
Ted Bullpit award for you.
Norman Julian
I knew someone wouldn't be able to help themselves.
LOL
Charles Shipway
Fantastic detail there Norman you drive our curiosity to snoop but never fear while you keep up the good work we are getting the excitement just admiring the detail
A lot of us are looking forward to see the finished bus one day
Norman Julian 19 May
The time has come to make the wheel arch piping.
Unfortunately my wife's sewing machine doesn't have a close enough presser foot to get the stitching right up close to the rope.
I thought about it for a while and thought I could use contact glue.
I have a spray can here so I experimented with a small piece and it works well.
Doesn't matter if in time the glue fails because the material is sandwiched between the mudguard and the wheel arch. The only thing you see is the rope part covered in the vinyl.
I also finished polishing the speedo cable



Carle Gregory
wouldnt mudguard piping be easier? like on Morris Minors
Norman Julian The rubber stuff?
Carle Gregory
yep, well rubber plasticy sort of stuff
Brian Blunt
The rubber moulded stuff is easier, but probably not original.
Norman Julian
I have seen the one from the rubber company and it isn't quite the right size.
Charles Shipway
Just a little closer Norman the speedo cable looks very good
Norman Julian 21 May
I finally found a photo of this bus while still in service of the damage that was done to it so I can show you.
If you see the second last window frame down the back you will see the drop in the roof and the window frame.
There was a tremendous amount of mucking around to get this right because not only had it dropped but it was facing inwards about 20mm .
Unfortunately that position is where the bulkhead wall on the inside that goes from one side to the other is which made it that much harder.
Looking at it in this photo doesn't mean much but when you see it in reality it really was an ordinary repair.
Brian Blunt
Black radiator looks horrible
Norman Julian
This is the rear bulkhead wall where the damage was and after raising the roof.
The panel didn't fit anymore.
Jeffrey Bounds
What caused the damage ?
Norman Julian
No idea.
Jeffrey Bounds
Thanks.
Last updated
May 2018
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