Norms Restoration - 31 Seater Projects

1953 Leyland OPD2/1 [2818]

2020

Mechanical April

Norman Julian 12 Apr
After 5 years of having 2818, tomorrow I will be starting to make some inroads into what will be I think the biggest test for me yet.
Because I have a lot of sentimental attachment to it I will be overlooking most of its shortcomings.
I have to start somewhere so the engine bay is where I am starting.
Trying to find a decent bolt to undo to take the radiator off might be a problem.
The radiator is a right off anyway, so I may have to hack it up to get it off.







Charles Shipway
Norman Julian lm looking forward to your next project and all the best to you with your effort with this bus
Norman Julian
Charles Shipway thanks Charles!
Norman Julian 13th Apr
Well I had to start somewhere.
The radiator is where I wanted to start but the bolts are hard to actually identify especially when there are other things in the way.
Different to the AEC and the bolt heads are basically petrified.
I was going to do a bit at a time and move on but once again things just don't work out the way you want.
In this case after I had replaced the radiator and serviced the whole engine I was going to start the body at the front and move round, but the rust is pretty extensive and both mudguards have to come off so as I can get access to the wheel arch on both sides which means she has to be stripped on both sides of the bus to the bulk head wall.
So far this bus has rust in different places to the AEC

Norman Julian
These light brackets are barely recognizable because of the corrosion.
The ones on the AEC are 10mm or 3/8" thick.
Carle Gregory
bugger
Norman Julian
Carle Gregory I was expecting worse
Norman Julian 14th Apr
HELP! I'm at the stage where I want to take this radiator off.
No idea.
I'm faced with corroded bolts and it's hard to know where to look.
The TD5 and AEC radiators come off shroud and all.
Not sure with the OPDY.
Ben Summers
Maybe try applying a good coating of WD40?
That might help remove the rust and help you work out where to look.
Scott Wilson
Get these 2 nuts off, then the rod over engine.
It will then slide forward and off.
Norman Julian
Hah! It's easy when you know where to look.
In this case it was for me anyway hidden in plain sight!
Thanks Scott.
Rob Otoole
Wurth make a black rost off spray works a treat
Carle Gregory
inox is brilliant in these cases if it isnt a gas axe will offer no resisatance
Norman Julian
Carle Gregory
Carle Gregory
brilliant i have treid the others and no real success but this stuff is great
Norman Julian 15th Apr
Getting this off was relatively straightforward when you know how.
I momentarily forgot I had 2 new hips when I lowered it down to the floor so now I can feel it.
You actually get a false sense of the size of the actual radiator when you look at the back of it.
I used unorthodox methods to get this off mainly because the shroud is buggered.




Garry Newton
Brings back memories, the first job after becoming a tradesmen was reconditioning these radiators.
They were fairly labor intensive, cleaning all the tubes and removing all the rubber seals.
Norman Julian
Garry Newton I would have liked to clean out this and the other 2 but I haven't the knowledge or no how
Garry Newton
Norman Julian these radiators were good, but labour intensity because each tube has a nut top and bottom with a rubber seal as you tighten the nut it squashes the rubber to seal the tube.
Getting the tubes out can be difficult because the rubber seals stick to the tubes.
If the radiator isn't leaking from the tube seals, and you want to slip a rod down the tube you can Un bolt the top tank.

Brian Blunt
What are the header tanks made from?
Norman Julian 15th Apr
I'm pretty sure these squashed and perished rubbers on both sides are buffers for the engine mounts.
I'm also pretty certain the Sydney Bus Museum has replacement rubbers.
No wonder the Leyland is shaky.
Not much insulation going on!
These rubbers would be adequate for steering etc but for engine mounts.
Wouldn't have thought so.



Norman Julian 16th Apr
I had a few hrs this afternoon so stripping the engine down is the goal.
The waterpump came off easy enough but the casting above basically fell to bits.
The broken piece had a huge hole in the bottom so it was a lost cause.
The rest of the casing that the broken piece was screwed to has the thermostat sitting in it and on the other side of it is filled with dried up calcium etc.
Another engine that needs a lot of attention.






Charles Shipway
Another challenge to bring the engine to life again Norman
This project will be a worthwhile adventure
Norman Julian
Scott Wilson tell me you can still get this part that is broken please!
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian I doubt it
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock not expecting a new one
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian if you can pice it together I can get it recast for you
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock after talking to someone that is familiar with this casting there maybe an argument with getting a few done.
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian I can organise it as.
Have a very good contact.
If you, SBM and Parker’s all wanted some the best thing would be share the cost get a permanent mould made and my man will cast them for you all as required.
Lee Hall
ABC diesels can get them.
I got a brand new one for mine.
Can't remember how much it was though.
Norman Julian
That's fantastic buddy.
Don't suppose you still have a part number or something to go by when ordering one?
Lee Hall
Norman Julian no I haven't but if you call them and ask for John he's very knowledgeable the number is 02 94763544 ������
Lee Hall
It's the same as this eh?
Norman Julian
How long ago did you get yours.
Do you know what they are actually called?
Lee Hall
It was about a year ago.
I know that lorry got one for his bus too it's thermostat housing
Lee Hall
Well.. the bit that bolts onto the housing ����
Norman Julian
Lee Hall Just had a 15 minute conversation with John and he will send a photo of what he has got to me.
Norman Julian 17th Apr
Not a good start, so far I have sheared off 2 bolts.
You wouldn't think that there was nearly a 20 year difference between this bus and the TD5 decommissioning dates.
The TD5 is a better put together engine than this.
My opinion of course.





Norman Julian 17th Apr
This oil filler cap is baffling for me.
First it was seized shut, l did get it to loosen up but it still doesn't want to open.
Does the handle turn or do you just lift it?
Probably too simple for me.
LOL.
Andrew Blacklock
Turn knob and lift up
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock knob wont budge!
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian push down and turn ?
Lee Hall
Push the button in middle and turn
Norman Julian 17th Apr
Here we have the thermostat and the broken housing.
Not sure if the thermostat works.
I will clean it up and drop it in boiling water to see what happens.




Andrew Blacklock
That housing is a easy recast
Norman Julian 17th Apr
This could be a likely replacement



Andrew Blacklock
We’re u find that
Norman Julian
A company by the name of ABC Diesels has them.
They have a few different parts like these.
The only issue with this part is the angle of the outlet at the top.
That can be dealt with.
Thanks to Lee Hall for putting me onto this company.
Andrew Blacklock
What’s the cost ?
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock don't know.
Andrew Blacklock
We’re did u find the photo?
There website is very basic
Charles Shipway
Norman Julian Another good find Glad your plans are gradually coming together for you
Scott Wilson
That's it.
Norman Julian
Hey Lee Hall
How did you overcome the angle difference with this casting over the old?
Norman Julian 17th Apr
Another part you can get

Norman Julian 18th Apr
I have tried everything but lay a hammer into this bloody thing to get it to lift but nothing.
I'm taking the neck off anyway so will try it again when off the engine.
Bob Gioia
Quater of a turn anticlockwise
Norman Julian 19th Apr



Norman Julian
My apprentice wanting a feed!
Norman Julian 20th Apr
I was warned by Scott Wilson that this part is a bastard of a thing to get off with the bolts breaking.
Well yesterday the first was tight but came out but the second one after some difficulty just snapped at the head out of the blue.
The 2 further back on the engine which are hard to get to came off faily easy.
Because 3 came out I could swing the part over towards me to see if I could get it to slide off the bolt but it didn't because it was seized on the body of the bolt not the thread.
It was full of calcium deposits.
I Never had anything like that happen to me before.
There wasn't enough room to get a hacksaw blade between the engine block and the part itself, thinking I could just saw it off, so I drilled a hole dead centre of the bolt with a 3mm drill bit and then worked up in size.
The bolt is about 10mm thick.
By the time I got to 8mm I just snapped what was left of the bolt.
There are 2 pictures showing what was left of the outer part of the bolt and the other shows the thread just sitting in the threaded hole of the block.
All that crap that is there came out of this piece.
It's not all there either.
I'm going to leave the exhaust manifold on there if I can.
No point in upsetting that.
You would have noticed my apprentice, He is very lazy and only wants to be fed every few hrs.
When he does work he takes nuts and bolts and hides them.





Norman Julian
When I took this off I found a pen in the neck.
Just as well there was a grill thingy there.

Norman Julian
The system compressor unit will have to come out so as to get access to the cover plates on the block.
Norman Julian 19th Apr
I got sick of cleaning oil and grease of me when stripping the engine, so I decided to start the cleanup of what I took off.
I started with this belt tentioner and adjuster.
It was well and truly seized.
I could not turn the handle at all, so the handle part was put into a vice and an adjustable wrench on the brass bracket in the middle and with some inox I freed it up enough to put the whole thing through the wire brush on the bench grinder.
After less than 10 minutes the thread was clean and the aluminium handle and brass bracket looks almost new again.


Adam Woodwards
Good to see you've got a handle on things.....
Norman Julian
Adam Woodwards no hubcaps for you
Brian Blunt
A turn for the better?
Norman Julian
You blokes taking the piss out of me.
I don't have a sense of humour.
I used to though when I owned a P76!
Hehehehehehehehe
Adam Woodwards
I was worried when he was in hospital he'd take a turn for the nurse
Adam Woodwards
You still own P76s.
Idiot
Norman Julian
Yeah!!!!!! . . .
I do don't I��
Peter Velthuis
he couldn't handle the way it was.
Charles Shipway
Another little job done with success Norman it looks good for its age
Graham Inskip
Norman, have you tried 'Evapo-Rust' it is great stuff, just drop the stuff in, fish out with your fingers.
Wash bits off with water and they don't rust for a while.
If they do just stick them back in the Evapo-Rust.
Then just polish up or wire brush and WD-40.
Norman Julian
Graham Inskip I have something similar.
Thanks mate
Daniel Laws 20th Apr
Hey Norm, found this interesting post in another group and thought it ma interest you.
Apparently the trick is to mix diesel with the transmission fluid before mixing it with the acetone and shake, don't stir.
Penetrates deeper and more cohesive than commercial preperations:
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop magazine recently [2014] published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this.
The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
Lee Hall 19th Apr
Don’t know if this helps but here is the inside.
When you push the button it moves down so you can then turn the knob

Norman Julian
Ah thanks.
Mine is jambed good.
The handle wont budge
Norman Julian I have a theory.
I'd bet the locking device inside is jambed on something.
I'm soaking the whole thing in a solution.
We will see the result in the morning.
Norman Julian
What condition is your engine in Lee Hall?
Norman Julian 20th Apr
Well I did manage to pry it apart.
The problem is the cap and turn handle.
While it was one piece I ended up tapping with a hammer and it did start to move till it opened.
It wasn't catching on anything inside and there was no rust either.
The brass of the handle and the alloy of the cap has decided not to cooperate with each other.
The brass is pressed on with 1 upper and one lower piece.
I kept at it with lube and kept hitting it lightly with the hammer and it was easier to move but still far too tight to do it by hand.




Bob Gioia
If you can't repair it I can get a replacement.
Norman Julian
Thanks Bob
Norman Julian 20th Apr
Well we had a win!
I had a closer look and discovered that I could punch the grab handle out of the aluminium lid.
With a good sanding off on the inside where the brass handle goes through and some machine grade grease it went back together very well.
That part is done and can go back on the engine.






Charles Shipway
Norm it takes more than this to stop you
The finished product looks better than new
Norman Julian 20th Apr

Norman Julian
I was wrong when I said in the other post about two pieces of brass being pressed together inside the aluminium cap.
It was only one piece that should have just fallen out when I took the nut off the bolt.
Norman Julian 20th Apr
Here we have 2 different ways to supply air to the brakes/geabox etc.
The second and third photo is the AEC setup.
It is adjacent to the gearbox and is connected by 3 drive belts.
The fourth photo is the Leyland frog that I'm working on now.
It is a direct drive system and is right near the front of the engine.
If I had a preference I would choose the AEC.
The compressor on the AEC is right away from the engine and if you look at the first photo it isn't as cluttered in the engine like the Leyland and much easier to work on if you had to work on it.
Now in saying that if I included the TD5 that would be my favourite to work on.
Being a half cab has got a lot of benefits over the other 2.
It is far better in the positioning of everything and the quality of most of the engine add ons is far better.
If you had to change the waterpump, both frogs you would have to take the radiator out the TD5 you don't.
All 3 though it is amazing how most of the engine parts I'm taking off can be revitalised.
Norman Julian
The generator is absent

Norman Julian
That is the compressor behind the oil filler.
Norman Julian
The AEC compressor on the left
Norman Julian 26 Apr
Sorry but little progress this week.
What I have done though is took apart and cleaned and regreased the belt adjuster.
There is also this alloy pipe on the off side near the belt adjuster.
It needs a new fitting that screws into a hole on the side.
The brass fitting fell apart trying to clean in that area.
I started the 2 air filter containers and the lids were dented and very corroded.
They are done with the bowls next.




Norman Julian 26th Apr
Norman Julian
This device was very badly locked up.
Took a while but she came good. Cleaned out the grease container of possibly 65 year old stuff.
The pully was corroded so it got some attention and repainted.
The main body was clean and left as is.
Norman Julian 30 Apr
I started to look at the waterpump and it does need attention!
I started by wanting to take the back plate off.
I had to drill out all but 2 of the back plate screws.
The heads being slot head were damaged that much that using the screwdriver wasn't possible.
I managed to drill out the remainder to expose the impeller.
It is in good condition but there is a bit of play in the shaft so it needs to be taken completely apart to have a look.
I had a small try at trying to get the main pully off but I had no success.
I'd say corrosion is playing a role in it not playing the co operation game.



Norman Julian
Does anyone know whether the impeller is enclosed to make a turbo action.
Looking at the corrosion around the edge where the impeller blades are, it looks like an encircling wall was there.

Edward Parker
The pulley is a press fit you will need a hydrullic puller to get it off
Norman Julian
Edward Parker thanks mate!
Edward Parker
Norman Julian they are very tight sometimes you have to warm pulley up too
Norman Julian
Edward Parker I tried that but to be honest I didn't try all that hard.
Edward Parker
Norman Julian trust me they are tight i buggered the last puller i used trying to get one apart normally when you put pressure on them with puller they wont budge then soon as you give them bit of heat they start moving
Norman Julian
These are designed to have 2 bolts go into a thread and the central part but I only had the other bearing type which I gripped around the outside of the pully.
I put a lot of tention on it and then heated it up but no signs of moving.
Because it was gripped onto where the belt sits I didn't want to press my luck too much
Edward Parker
Norman Julian put two bolts in holes then grab bolts with half moons.
The best way would be to drill a piece of plate to bolt up to all of holes so all force going through all bolts
Edward Parker
Be carefull grabbing where belts run they are only cast and break easilly
Charles Shipway
Norman You are doing the same old same old again Entertaining us as you work towards a special bus going back on the road hopefully avoiding breakdown
Lee Hall
I know the feeling ����.
Plenty of ������ helped
Andrew Blacklock
I got a contact for a bloke who overhauls those pumps
Norman Julian
Did Lorrie get one for his?
Andrew Blacklock Norman Julian no another bloke
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock I may get a spare if they are not too expensive.
Hope is isn't on an exchange basis!
Edward Parker
The place lorie got his done was auto cooling in altona vic
Lee Hall
Be interested in the price for a spare
Edward Parker
Lee Hall they repair your one not sell new ones
Lee Hall
Edward Parker ah ok worth a shot ��
Edward Parker
Lee if they had new ones id take 20
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian I will give you his number
Andrew Blacklock
Norman would a impact driver be any good to try on screws
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock no because the threads are stripped
Last updated
April 2020
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