31 Seater Projects - Norms Buses - Monthly activity

Norman Julian 1 May
: This is what I will have to tackle some time soon after I have done all the engine ancillaries.
: These first 3 photos are off this project whereas the 4th is off the TD5.
: You can see the decay difference of something that spent a great deal of time near the coast as to something that spent a great deal more time (20 years in fact) in the drier country.
: These are the bolts holding the front crossmember on.
: In this first photo you can see what is left of a nyloc nut.
: That is the nylon ring that would normally be attached to the end of the nut.
: The bolts and nuts that are on the TD5 were all cleaned up and reused.

Carle Gregory
: i know what you mean by being near the coastline, i had a 1983 Laser Ghia in the front yard within a year or so it was rapidly returning to the earth
: Norman Julian
: Carle Gregory it will be interesting what I come up with to get these bolts out.
: Carle Gregory
: mmmm my thinks gas axe will get a workout!, i have another 1983 Laser Ghia under the house been there about 12 years and it hasnr excaped the rust either but at least with it being under cover all that time it is nly surface rust
: Norman Julian
: On a good day when the wind is up, salt spray can travel up to 80km inland!
: Carle Gregory
: wow i am only a kilometre from Moreton Bay (waterloo bay actually) we had a big wind from the east a few years ago over a few days and ended up salt blasting trees and such on their eastern side
: Norman Julian
: Carle Gregory this bus was at Bowraville which in a straight line is about 15km from the coast.

Norman Julian 3rd May
: Back to work today after a few days off because of the weather.
: I put the waterpump in the too hard basket for now and started on these.
: Unlike the TD5 these had oil in them so I knew I didn't have to do any filling of rust holes.
: What I did discover was rat poo mixed in with the oil of one of these filter bowls or tubs.
: Not even sure how that is possible.
: Some of you wouldn't know how these go together but you that do would be thinking the same thing.
: The lids that go on the top of these are finished.
: They were cleaned and treated of rust and given 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of epoxy paint.
: These bowls will be given the same treatment.
: Not the inside but the outside only.
: The filter elements themselves will be soaking in a degreaser bath for about a week each.
: Oil gets caught up in the coiled mesh and can go hard if left to dry out.
: Degreaser softens the oil and it seeps out through the bottom of the filter.

Mark Ellery
: Currently doing the same job with my fordson major
: Norman Julian
: Mark Ellery that would be a great old thing, is it a project or farm worker now?
: Mark Ellery
: Norman Julian both, it is a great tractor and does a lot around d the place slashing, pulling a scarafier and stuff
: Andrew Blacklock
: When I serviced 2308 for Lorie Norton we had to was these several times.
: Lots of cockroaches and leaves in them to lol.

Norman Julian 3 May
: I had forgotten about this.
: I left it soaking in a special bath for over a week and today I took it out and it is as clean as a whisle.
: This is the thermostat.
: It was completely covered inside and out with years of crusty hardened crap that was in the water.
: The spring wouldn't move at all and the round disc attached to the shaft was in the closed position.
: If the thermostat housing wasn't crumbling with corrosion the engine would still have water in it and have soon overheated because this thing wouldn't have been able to open.
: Anyway the bath has cleaned everything up and the disc and shaft open and closes nicely.
: I will do a simple test to see if I can get it to work.
: Unlike any car thermostat I can take this one completely apart.

Norman Julian 6th May
: A few more things done.
: The 2 air filter canisters were a lot easier to do than the TD5.
: If you follow both projects the TD5 had no oil in its canister and the canister had 2 holes in the side which I had to deal with.
: These 2 still had oil in them which makes cleaning the mesh elements themselves a lot easier.
: The bodies of the canisters were cleaned and treated for light surface rust and painted.
: The lids were a little worse and a bit of panel beating was done as well as rust.
: I also put a picture up that shows the oil level gauge that the air filter element sits in.
: The mesh elements themselves were a whole lot easier to clean because they were still sitting in an oil bath and unlike the TD5 were not dried out.
: The other thing that was cleaned was the fuel filter canister.
: 5 years ago I replaced the cotton element.
: The old one was sitting in 20 year old diesel and smelt fowl.

Norman Julian 11th May
: Well after a good clean of the bearing shaft and close inspection of the 2 bearings the news is good.
: The shaft on the impeller end is a little corroded but nothing serious.
: The centre housing with the recess and hole in the middle with the bearing on either side is where grease is injected into it to lubricate the bearings, just like the waterpump on the TD5.
: In another picture I have left the grease nipple that is attached to an extention piece. Grease goes into that nipple and ends up in the recess or gallery and is forced into that hole to lubricate the bearings.
: The bearing cap on either bearing is a pressed fit inside the mechanical of the pump, so grease cannot escape.
: The other thing in the picture with the shaft is the seal.
: This one looks OK but I would have liked to have replaced it.
: In another shot there is the pump mechanical on the other side of it showing a small hole.
: Most old style and new modern pumps have this hole.
: It is on the dry side of the impellor before the shaft carrying the bearings.
: It is to show you when the seal fails and starts to leak.
: In this instance with there being no belts and basically no water in the engine, and no way of testing it, (unless I did a bench test) I don't know whether it will leak or not. One saving grace is this cooling system isn't pressurised so less likely to leak like modern systems.

Norman Julian
: This pully hub is corroded.
: Probably because of the belts being against the pully and collecting moisture for so long.
: Charles Shipway
: Norman Julian is it possible for you to leave them as they are or do you need to reface them ?
: Norman Julian
: There is still plenty of meat on it Charles so I may just leave it
: Robert Stevenson
: Bit of extra grip to eliminate sqealing
: Norman Julian
: Yeah.
: I don't think I want to do any welding because it could very well warp it.

Andrew Blacklock
: Should be able to get a new seal
: Norman Julian
: Andrew Blacklock ABC Diesels don't have any.
: Andrew Blacklock
: Norman Julian Motorparts?
: Edward Parker
: Not available you have to put a standard seal same as what goes in atlantean pump you have to make adaptor plate for it to fit in
: Edward Parker
: Andrew Blacklock mr motor parts will sell you the atlantean seal
: Andrew Blacklock
: Edward Parker so the Atlantean seal is a crush type mechanical seal?
: Edward Parker
: Andrew Blacklock yes uses ceramic sprung seal with metal runner

Norman Julian 14 May
: I had a rather lengthy conversation with a guy from Mr. Motorparts.
: I was interested in the seal for the waterpump.
: The original [pictured] is no longer available [that anyone knows of].
: I was told that the one in the second picture is a suitable replacement.
: I am willing to gamble and will get one to see if I can get it to work.
: If anyone has a question then I would ring them and ask any questions you may have.
: My contact was Doug.

Scott Wilson
: Doug Chatman, top bloke.
: Norman Julian
: He mentioned you!
: Norman Julian
: I won't say what he said Scott Wilson after all profanity is not allowed in this group.
: LOL.
: Robert Stevenson
: Looks awfully similar to a standard seal in a 240v or 415v water pump.
: They come in a range of sizes to suit different shafts.
: The one you have pictured should come apart a bit more.
: They are a 2 part seal
: If you have a farm irrigation specialist, or an electrical motor rewinder in your area, they will likely be able to help.
: Norman Julian
: Probably do look similar but they only look similar.
: There are different shaft sizes.
: Different overall dia. sizes and different depth and bed sizes.

Norman Julian 16 May
: I'm on light duties at the moment so the other day I took these 2 pipes off to clean and inspect.
: I don't have a manual on this engine so I will become stuck on some things.
: I think though the flexible pipe with the tape maybe the pipe to the oil pressure gauge in the drivers cabin.
: The other solid copper one seems to come from the cooling system at the back of the engine and connects up to the pipe I have pictured here that has been cleaned up.
: When I took the water pipe off the copper pipe came away from it.
: It would have been connected with a reducing nipple of 3/8" x 1/4". The connection to it was corroded away.
: Anyway, both these pipes will have to be replaced.
: The copper pipe has pitted flared ends, so I might as well replace the copper pipe as well.
: Both ends of the copper pipe were clogged with rubbish.
: The other rubber pipe is also stuffed and just to show you what I am talking about, I have made a loop in the pipe and you can see the rather large cracks.
: Those cracks appear all over both hoses.
: The important braided hose underneath is probably sound but because I'm restoring this I may as well get them renewed. The hoses are joined and not sure why, maybe the tap was here rather than at the engine at one time in its life. Someone will know!

Norman Julian
: Not sure what these 2 lines ever did but they are not connected to anything
: Scott Wilson
: Remote greese points.
: A Hex nipple at the end facing down.
: Norman Julian
: Yes but what about the other
: Scott Wilson
: Norman Julian Both are greese points.
: Norman Julian
: Scott Wilson The other is just a pipe with nothing on it

Chris Dempsey
: Just think your superman
: Charles Shipway
: UH OH !!!
: Not a good look there Norm Nothing is impossible Time and persistence always wins as you know only too well
: Now what’s the plan ?
: Take a Bex a cuppa and a good lay down I’ve been told
: Never tried it myself Norm only a suggestion
: Norman Julian
: Charles Shipway a bloody Bex.
: Hahahahahaha
: Norman Julian
: Bex powders is one of 3 things that helped kill my father!
: Charles Shipway
: Norman Julian sorry mate BUT I had no idea I was so close to the bone One of my mothers sisters went the same way unfortunately
: Norman Julian
: Charles Shipway that's fine.
: It was a long time ago.
: Charles Shipway
: Norman Julian I’m pleased you sent the comment to me and feel free to do it if the need ever arises again

Norman Julian 22 May
: Another problem done.
: These fittings ended up being an easy fix.
: Barbed fittings on either end.
: Just had to cut the old rubber off and put the replacement rubber on.
: It is a tight fit so warming up the hose in hot water and then pushing the hose onto the fitting and that is it. Unlike garden hose barbed fittings these ones wont come off.

Norman Julian 23 May
: Now that the front crossmember was out of the bus I could concentrate on getting this other radiator bracket off.
: I broke a drill bit off the other day trying to drill the bolt enough that it would come out easy.
: I probably used a too small a drill bit and then twisted it somehow.
: You would think that there being a thread in the bracket and only a straight smooth shaft of the bolt in the crossmember that it should just slide out now that there is no head of the bolt.
: If you see the pin punch, I have put a mushroom head on both ends of the punch after using a heavy lump hammer.

Norman Julian 23 May
: I ended up getting that broken bolt out with heat.
: Wouldn't budge with a pair of stilstons.
: I only had propane and not map so didn't know whether it would be hot enough.
: I took the whole thing apart and retapped and rethreaded the bolts.
: Apart from a little corrosion on the radiator fork it is very good.
: These parts are cast steel and even though I cleaned them up they will rust again, so they will be painted.

Norman Julian 23 May
: These are just some of the engine mount rubbers.
: On first appearance on taking the bolts out and separating the metal brackets exposes the rubber inside.
: The rubber itself seems fine.
: Some of the holes are not central but I think the rubber has held up well after so much time that has past.
: I was more concerned with the inside of the steel sleeves that are part of the crossmember.
: I will be replacing all the bushes.
: I can get a whole kit from the Sydney Bus Museum.

Norman Julian 24 May
: This crossmember is basically done.
: I took out some remnants of engine mounts as you saw yesterday.
: The old wire brush got a hiding on the angle grinder and got off dirt and rust.
: The hole on either side of the crossmember that holds one of the 2 bolts that hold the radiator bracket was cleaned out and retapped.
: Both of those bolts were broken from the head, so I reused 2 of the bolts that used to hold the crossmember onto the chassis.
: As you know all the nuts that used to hold the crossmember bolts (8 in total) were utterly corroded and had to be cut off.
: The other 2 bolts that hold the radiator brackets were corroded as well so another 2 old bolts were shortened and retapped.
: Rust converter will be used and then the whole thing gets painted.

Charles Shipway
: Looking GOOD keep up the good work Norman Julian please
: Adrian Spencer
: I am wondering why you are not using the sandblaster, are the items too big or worried about damaging surfaces
: Norman Julian
: Adrian Spencer it isn't set up properly yet! . . .
: If Andrew Blacklock says one word I will kick him out of the group.
: LOL
: Andrew Blacklock
: Adrian Spencer like a virgin that sandblasting cabinet
: lol
: Norman Julian
: By the way this is far too big for the cabinet!
: Andrew Blacklock
: Let have a bbq and piss up for the christening of the blast cabinet !
: Lol

Andrew Blacklock
: I will gave a look in a manual for you on Sunday morning
: Charles Shipway
: Norman Julian your still focused and moving forward good to see progress
: Time takes care of every project
: Edward Parker
: It is a standard thread not left hand can be quite tight but normally you remove pulley by removing the six bolts it sits on 2 dowels.
: Then undo large bolt which has a locking tab you need to hit down.
: Then you will need a big puller if you want to remove front cranksharft flange it is on a taper and keyway
: Norman Julian
: Edward Parker thanks but can the pulley be taken off without removing the big nut?
: Edward Parker
: Norman Julian for memory yes definitely on a 680 but been long time since i have done a 600 they are the same parts.
: It is probably stuck on the two dowels prob best to undo nut anyway best way is with a impact gun as u wont have to worry about locking motor up.
: I will check one out at oakville and send you some pics
: Edward Parker

Edward Parker You may need to undo bolt if pulley does not come off but you will need to make a puller they are very tight to remove
: Norman Julian
: Edward Parker I'm not venturing any further with the engines inners because it runs fine.
: I just want to replace the pulley, as you and everyone can see it is Kaput.
: Edward Parker
: Norman Julian you may have to take it off with puller wont effect anything on inside but i would replace front seal they arnt worth much
: Peter Velthuis
: I would keep adding salt water to it and hope it just totally rusts away, Then replace it.
: lol.��
: Mark Ellery
: Peter Velthuis you deserve a visit from Dr Philthy, ��
: Peter Velthuis
: Mark Ellery
: lol he's heading towards me right now.
: Mark Ellery
: Peter Velthuis I knoooooooooow
: Norman Julian
: Say hello to the old fella will you Peter Velthuis!
: Peter Velthuis
: Phil's way of saying hello.

Andrew Blacklock 29 May
: Blacklock Restoration Consultant Services was pleased to help Norman Julian with the “re-casting” and machining of a reproduction cooling system housing for his restoration.
: Comments on individual photos of the process.
: Call Norman any time day or night for further details.

Norman Julian
: I don't normally allow advertising in this group, but I will allow this . . .
: this time.
: LOL
: Norman Julian
: Blacklock Restoration Consultant Services.
: Bloody hell and I thought I had an ego.
: LOL
: Andrew Blacklock
: Norman Julian beware the Leyland part number cost extra ��
: Mark Ellery
: looks like a great job
: Robert Stevenson
: Fantastic job doing that.
: Lee Hall
: Brilliant. ��

Norms Restoration - 31 Seater Projects

1953 Leyland OPD2/1 [2818]

2020

Mechanical May