Norms Restoration - 31 Seater Projects

1953 Leyland OPD2/1 [2818]

2020

Mechanical November

Norman Julian 1st Nov
One more thing to take off and this filter is it.
I ended up taking the starter out because it is in the way of some of the sump bolts.
The same thing was done with the TD5.
Both are very similar in many areas of each other.
The "glug" (hard oily substance lol) in the main sump is 12mm thick.
Looking at this sump and the condition of the filter if the oil in the sump was left too low the filter would not have been able to filter through properly to the oil lifter and probably done damage to the engine.
This needed to be done.
By the way there was no sign of any moisture in the oil.
That's good news.






Ben Summers
I'm going to have to sort out 2775's oil.
Norman Julian
Your's will probably be like this!
Ben Summers
Probably. 2775's has a funny smell, so it's probably stale.
Norman Julian
Funny smell from where?
Oil doesn't go off that way whereas diesel can.
Ben Summers
The oil.
I can smell it on the filter.
Norman Julian
If the engine is worn the oil can be burnt.
Scott Wilson
Ben Summers 2775 had a separate sump box that has a brass strainer box inside it.
It is still apart of the moter but not part of the sump return system.
Ben Summers
Okay, thanks Scott
Ben Summers
Honestly, I'm not sure what the engine is like Norman.
There is no water in the oil.
Norman Julian
Ben Summers
it also depends on what you think oil is suppose to smell like
Ben Summers
I'm used to handling fresh oil Norman.
Norman Julian
Ben Summers
oils today are different to what they used to be
Ben Summers
Ah, that's probably why it smells different.
Phil Steele
"Very Cool"
Norman Julian 2nd Nov
Seems a bit odd to me that you can still buy engine parts and other bits for the 600 series engine but consumables like oil filters are extremely hard to get.
I can get one for now but what about tomorrow.
There are others out there that still have this engine in a multitude of vehicles.


Paul Morton
This looks like it has a bend in the side of it Norman?
Is it, or an optical illusion caused by oil spots?
Norman Julian
Paul Morton optical illusion.
Oil stains
Andrew Blacklock
Sent you a link to them last week and you was not interested?
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock that's not the issue and nearly $60 plus freight is ridiculous
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian if you can’t buy them easy that’s the cost I guess
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian if you had to buy a full flow and separate by pass oil filter like some other Diesel engines it probably cost more than $60
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock the point of the post wasn't the cost it is the availability considering you can still buy engine parts etc etc.
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian I agree about that.
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock I said thanks but no thanks the other day to you because at that time I hadn't taken the canister off and like the AEC and TD5 the filter would have been a steel mesh type that could be cleaned out and renewed.
I was surprised to see it was a disposable type
Andrew Blacklock
Norman Julian that’s why I passed it on lol
Brian Blunt
Often find that an engine can have different filters depending on the application and age.
Like all parts, there comes a time when the manufacturers say "no more" and filters would be like toilet paper in a pandemic- people hoard them.
Contact Mr Filter at Toongabbie.
Send some photos and dimensions to them; they have been very helpful to us, sometimes even recommending two smaller filters in series.
If your engine is clean to start with, one filter should last a very long time with the amount of use you will give it. You can always take it out and clean it too.
Norman Julian
Brian Blunt good advice, thanks
Norman Julian 3rd Nov
This would have to be the job straight from hell.
The main sump after a good clean out of the old oil and several cleans with degreaser and a scraper it didn't come up too bad.
The inside of the sump is very good and no sign of corrosion.
I have the sump mesh oil strainer soaking in degreaser.
I have done this numerous times and the degreaser breaks down the lumpy oil.
I have also started the oil filter canister.
These items are getting just a thorough clean and that's all.






Norman Julian
They put a lot of faith in this gaskets.
The sump gaskets are about as thick as a piece of paper.
Robert Stevenson
You know you want to polish them.
Norman Julian
Have you been spying on me!
LOL
Robert Stevenson
��������
Norman Julian
This is just a wire brush spruce up, nothing more!
Norman Julian 4th Nov
A few more things done and to do.
The sump ended up getting a wire brush finish along with the dip stick stem.
I also decided to take off the breather pipe.
The more stuff I take off and clean now the easier it will be later on when fully assembled.




Norman Julian 6th Nov
A few more things done and only a few more to do and I can start putting it back together.
The compressor, injector pump and exhaust are all that's left.
I am getting a little weary of doing cleaning etc.





Norman Julian 8th Nov
This is a question for people in the know.
This compressor is a direct drive application.
By disconnecting it from the engine can I clean it separately with a pressure sprayer?
I'm assuming it is a sealed unit and no water can get in.
Thanks in advance.


Scott Wilson
Yes.
Norman Julian
The only reason I asked is because of the gear being open to fresh air.
Thanks.
Lee Hall
Norman Julian might be worth taking the plate off the bottom and checking the bearings too while it's off.
Mine had two bits of pipe cut down the middle instead of the proper bearings (must have been a bush fix in middle of nowhere��)
Norman Julian
Thanks Lee
Norman Julian8th Nov
The injector pump is as clean as I can get it without taking it apart.
The strainer for the sump is also clean and ready to go back on.


Norman Julian 9th Nov
The last 2 major components are grease free.
The compressor came up better than I thought though the cylinder head will be derusted and painted as will the injectior coupling behind the compressor.
I cleaned the starter as well and when I took the back of it off I saw there was moisture inside.
The 2 nuts that hold the cover on to the body were loose anyway.
When I saw what was sealing together I didn't panic too much.
Just a thin piece of string is all that seals it.
I used the air gun to blow what moisture was in there out and left it in the sun to bake a little.
The cover has a little bit of paint left on it which is a colour that is familiar to me.
I have seen Merc engines painted this colour or something close anyway.
Even the Sydney Bus Museum has painted their latest OPDY 2 decker engine something like this colour.





Norman Julian 10th Nov ·
What was to what is.
Chemically cleaned and bead blasted.





Norman Julian 11th Nov
I am a person that is facinated with machinery and how things work.
This is a very important part of the vehicle.
Without it the bus would neither go or stop.
It operates both the gearbox and the brakes, as well as other things like the front and back jacknife doors.
It isn't unlike your air compressor you have in your workshop to power air tools etc.
Unlike yours which runs on 240 volts this one operates off the diesel engine.
That big gear at the front when in position engages to another one which is on the engine.
That "S" shaped pipe that is looped and up in the air connects to another pipe which in turn is connected to a series of pipes which goes to all 4 wheels and the gearbox through a large air holding tank just like your air compressor has. I was cleaning the head part of this unit and took off the 2 nuts of different sizes at the side to see what they were for but they are just bungs for the same connections as what's on the opposite side.
Now in the picture as I said the one with the pipe coming out is for the air.
The other side connects up to the engine.
It gets its oil supply for lubricating the 2 pistons from the host engine.
Because the head on this is prone to surface rust, I'm going to paint that black.
The rest of the body will stay the alloy .



Robert Stevenson
Black will look good, but they will get bloody hot.
Engine enamel will likely be the shot.
Norman Julian
Yeah! I was wondering that!
Graham Inskip
Really looking good Norman...but I am going to through you one...why not go radical and paint it in red crackle?
Haha.
Love to see your work.
Norman Julian 11th Nov
I took this flexible drive thingy apart and discovered that things aren't what they seem.
There are 2 parts to this separated by a spacer.
Each segment is made up of 3 thin pieces of spring steel and 4 out of the 6 are broken.
Every picture tells a story.
The head of the compressor has been painted.




Andrew Blacklock
Typical Leyland but good news is Mr Motor Parts have then
Andrew Blacklock
MMP eBay Page
Norman Julian ·
Well she is done!
I even made a saddle near the end of the overflow pipe.
This originally didn't have one so not sure if it ever did.
I will give it a water test at some stage to see if it leaks.
There are no less then 115 different places it could leak.
If it does you will hear me from your place.
This job reminds me of an old saying I once heard! "Patience is a virtue, possess if you can, seldom found in women, never in a man"!
I must be a big girl!
LOL
Norman Julian 14th Nov
This is just about everything thus far.
After doing this and about the same amount on the TD5, I want to start to get back into structural things.
With that you look like you are achieving more per day.




Norman Julian 14th Nov·
New discs turned up today.
Started puting it back together.
I will finish it tomorrow when the paint on the drive part of the compressor dries.



Andrew Blacklock
Fast delivery.
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock they were in the letterbox when we checked today.
Probably came yesterday.
Norman Julian 14th Nov·
The new discs are on and I don't trust 65 year old nyloc nuts.
I placed some lock thread on to satisfy my concerns.



Andrew Blacklock
I did not think they had nylon nuts 65 years ago?
Castle nuts and pins on HRH Leylands lol
Norman Julian
Andrew Blacklock
yeah . . . I'm thinking they couldn't be bothered tieing them all up again when doing changes so they went down the road of nyloc nuts.
The bolts only have holes big enough for wire not split pins.
Norman Julian
There was only one castle nut out of 8 nuts.
Norman Julian 16th Nov
After upsetting this inspection plate on the bottom of the compressor I noticed it was leaking when reattached.
I took the lid off and noticed lumps of gluggly oil sitting again after I cleaned it up.
You can also see water drops on the side.
Time now for a proper clean out and new gasket.



Norman Julian 16th Nov ·
I had another go at this.
This time I put degreaser in the main sump and cleaned it out with the pressure sprayer to get rid of the remainder of the 40 odd year old oil, and then sat it in the hot sun right way up to burn off any moisture.
After about an 1hr I brought it in and blew any residual water out with the air gun.
Because I'm not sure how long before it goes back in and working I sprayed a liberal amount of spray grease on the gudgeons etc and made the new gasket and sealed it up.



Norman Julian
I sprayed grease on to protect everything from surface rust.

Norman Julian 16th Nov
I couldn't possibly ignore this.
The starter can't go back in with the bracket that holds it in looking like this so yet another cleaning and restoration job.
With the TD5 it was easier just to pull the steel rods out and the clamps etc came out easy.
This one though the rods fowled on the engine in both directions so I had to take out the whole box and dice.
Have a look at the crud.
The reason for the paint is the zinc finish failed so I cleaned off the rust and gave it a paint job.

Norman Julian
If you see the little hole to the left of the picture that's where the neck of the started goes and engages on the ring gear where you can just see some teeth.




Robert Bothwell
Made an amazing difference.
Norman Julian 17th Nov
I ended up getting near 2kg of rubbish out of the block.
2kgs of this means that 2 litres of water can't be held in the engine.
Stewart Ims
Holy smokes
Norman Julian 17th Nov
I left the fun job till last.
Like the others this engine is clogged with years of water contaminated mineral buildup.
I took 2 photos of the outside of the cylinder pots.
One with and one without the flash.
The gap between the pots was blocked.
No way would there have been free flowing water able to get through on that side.
There is no easy way to do this that I know of other than perseverance.
I made a special tool to get around hard corners like this to break up the larger pieces.
Then the blower is used in combination with the vacuum cleaner.
It's slow but it gets the job done.
That icecream container is a third full already and this is just the first 3 cylinders.




Brian Blunt
We had a similar situation recently.
Mr Gurney worked wonders
Norman Julian
Brian Blunt
yeah!
I thought about that but I didn't want a big mess in my shed.
Norman Julian
What's that engine from Brian Blunt?
Brian Blunt
It was originally in a 1930s Dennis truck;
we found it on a farm used as a water pump.
It has now been transplanted into a Dennis fire engine.
Brian Blunt
Norman Julian 17th Nov
When I was under the front end to check something, I noticed this.
Have a go at the bolts holding the front spring to the axle.
The first photo is the near side spring, its the other of concern.
Not sure how this ever was accepted.



Norman Julian
These nuts only cover about half the thread of the bolt!
Lee Hall
Got a couple of threads there.
Ah send it ��
Norman Julian
You're a "Cunny Funt"! LOL
Robert Stevenson
Deeper nuts?
Only need x number of threads to be considered fastened in engineering terms.
Norman Julian
Robert Stevenson I hope you are joking
Robert Stevenson
Are the ones without thread exposed a deeper nut?
Bit hard to tell.
There is an engineering equation for the number of threads to be engaged, based on diameter of thread and the number of teeth per inch.
Norman Julian
The picture shows mud filled threads from Mud Wasps.
The nut only covers half of the thread and the nuts are nyloc nuts.
Nyloc nuts only work at all if the nylon washer that is built into the top part of the nut gets a chance to bite into the a few threads of the bolt.
There is no spring washer for the nut to bite into so therefore in theory the nut can work its way off.
Not acceptable in my book.
Norman Julian 18th Nov
I decided what the hell so the generator is now coming out.
That way it will free up the engine completely and make it easier to clean.
Getting it out from underneath though was a little difficult.
I looked at the floor in the drivers cab and notifed that it is divided into 3 sections so I started to undo the bolts and out of 10 bolts I snapped 7 off.
Not really worried about that I continued to remove the rest and took the very back section off to notice that it was broken and so was the next piece.
They are made of cast alloy so not surprised by that.
Tomorrow I will take the next piece off so I can get full access to the generator.
There is nothing more for me to take off.
I also now have clear access to the rear engine mounts.

Norman Julian
This generator has a similar bracket setup to the starter so I will do the same thing and clean it up.

Norman Julian
This is looking up from underneath.

Norman Julian
This is where the driver would be seated.
Looking at the electrical box on top of the generator.

Norman Julian
The handbrake area!
Norman Julian 19th Nov
2818 giving up a few more secrets!


Norman Julian 19th Nov ·
Well everything is off the engine now.
This generator was a real weighty thing to get out.
I ended up taking it out through the bottom.
This thing must be made of pure bloody lead.
I will clean up these few things and then give the engine a very hot water wash.
I can hire one from town that runs the pressure side of it by electricity but the furnace runs by diesel.
My normal pressure sprayer is no match for the years of grease and grime on this engine but the hot water type does it quite easy.
I already used it on the AEC.
I was wondering what the square steel plate was on the floor plate and realised it was covering a factory hole (you can see it in the pictures).
This is undoubtedly for the floor shift.
In England these double deckers also came out in a manual.






Norman Julian19th Nov
Just a question generally! Does anyone know if these old generators are mostly reliable.
If not I may take it to an auto electrician for a simple (hopefully) test.
Norman Julian
They fairly reliable but don’t charge like a new alternator does.
This is Andrew Blacklock
Andrew Blacklock
A good job for Scott Wilson
I think he probably owes you a favour (all those rusty jobs) lol
Garth Taylor
From memory the output is between 10 & 15 amps.
Scott Wilson
Garth Taylor
Try 60 amps.
Scott Wilson, thanks Scott for refreshing my memory.
Norman Julian
Thanks boys.
Very helpful!
Allan Cowan
look at the commutator, if it all humps and bumps, get it skimmed and some new brushes, not a big job, some new bearings, and good forever
Robert Stevenson
Mostly reliable.
Regulators used to be the issue more than the generators.
They dont give the output at low revs like an alternator will do.
If the commutator looks okay, the main job was to undercut the segments a little.
A hacksaw blade with the wavy edges ground down to the right thickness was the tool we used to make up for the job. Have a look at how much brush there is left.
If there is still a reasonable length left, I wouldnt bother too much with them.
Perhaps make sure they are bedded properly.
For that we used some finish sandpaper under the brushes and either did a push pull on the paper, or rotated it to get them to be in full contact.
Norman Julian 21st Nov
This afternoon I started working on this generator again and getting to know it a little better.
There are 4 access point plates.
Some of the screws were really unwilling to come off with these plates but all but one eventually gave in.
All the brushes look fine and have plenty of ware left.
There are 2 screws at the front part and one at the rear part of the body which allows for greasing of the shaft bearings and compared to other makes of generators this is pretty poor.
I know greasing of the bearings is something that isn't done too often but this is poor designing.
Anyway, I will dig out the old stuff and force in some fresh grease.
There is a fair bit of dust particles inside so by having all the plates off will make it easier to clean out.




Robert Stevenson
Made to last a lifetime.
I doubt they would have had much in the way of bearing issues while it was in continuous service.
Any grease left is probably rock hard by now.
Is it a bearing or a brass bush on the ends?
Allan Cowan
Robert Stevenson
looks pretty good, even wear on the brushes, and commutator
Norman Julian 22nd Nov ·
Some of the corrosion on this generator and its bracket is head scratching.
For something that isn't exposed to the elements.
Just as well I checked out all the brushes.
One has a broken wire off the carbon brush.
There are 4 sets of carbon brushes on this.
Does anyone know if you need all 8 to form a circuit so to speak.
I also finished off all the cleaning and corrosion.
Some painting to be done.





Robert Stevenson
If the brushes are in pairs, then you could get away with a single brush.
But that looks like it would be a fairly common brush.
Sometimes you get blank brushes and have to file and sand them down to size.
Your local electrical wholesaler should be able to help you out.
They are still in general usage in industry.
Shouldnt be too expensive either.
Will have to sand the face that rubs on the commutator to get a nice fit.
Allan Cowan
Ashdowns
Norman Julian
badge icon
Author
Look at the corrosion on this!
Norman Julian 25th Nov
This one took a bit of cleaning up.


Norman Julian 26th Nov
I was wondering how I was going to cart this thing around and after painting trying to get it back in without scratching it.
Getting it out from underneath was just a gravity thing.
I let it drop and using my strength to slow it down and onto a cushion.
Getting it back in though would be far easier through the top.
In saying that it is awkward and you need 2 hands.
The cabin area though is too cramped and for me I can't get in position and use 2 hands to lower it down, so I made a handle that can bolt on to the unit so I can lower it down somewhat easier with one hand.
I was curious as to what this thing weighed and it came up at 38kgs.
That's about half my weight (I wish).
LOL.
The other thing I did was treating the water chamber plates with rust converter.
After all the rain we have had there is a lot of humidity in the air.
A good phosphorous coating will protect the corroded side of the plates till they get wet again.
The outside will be painted tomorrow.



Robert Stevenson
Have you test run the generator?
If you put power on to it, it will run.
There were Briggs and Stratton engines on fire pumps that used the same unit to start it and then charge the battery.
Norman Julian
Yeah Scott mentioned that.
Where do you connect the leads from the battery?
Norman Julian
On here?
Norman Julian 26th Nov
I have done all I dare mechanically on this generator.
I had to get a broken screw out and fortunately I had another of this thread.
I took all these brush plates off and cleaned them up and replaced the 4 gaskets.
I also inspected the brushes and what has been said the other day one brush needs to be replaced.
I cleaned out the grease bearing shafts and regreased them.
I blew out the inside of the generator of carbon dust etc.
Not too bad actually.
I did move the broken carbon brush from around the underside of the generator that sits in the bottom part of the cradle to the top part of the generator so it is easier to get to when I replace it later.
The body of this was rusted so a coat of paint will go on later.


Robert Stevenson
Another quality job by Norm.
Certainly a labour of love.
Norman Julian 29th Nov
Last few things done.
Not upset that this is near finished.
The generator is done.
The engine block water chamber plates and the upper radiator rod bracket (long piece of round steel) which holds the top part of the radiator balanced.
I also painted the gear side of the starter as well.
Every nut, bolt and washer was cleaned and checked over.
The next job now is to put the 2 water chamber plates back on after I have another go at cleaning more dirt out of the engine water chamber area that I may have missed.
Before the major engine clean things like the oil pan strainer and sump to go back on and then the holes like exhaust and oil holes need to be block so as to not get any unnecessary contaminants or moisture in the engine.


Robert Stevenson
Ive got a few of those boxes, and could do with some more. Whee did you get those ones?
Norman Julian
I got these over 12 years ago.
You can buy them from a retailer.
I thought I even saw them at Bunnings some time ago.


Last updated
November 2020
This web site may contain Copyright material
If you find any problems with the site, please email the Web Editor