Norms Restoration of 1939 Leyland TD5 [1635]

Norman Julian 19 Aug
The weather being a little better allowed me to do a few things to the TD5.
I placed the waterpump and the injector pump back in and hopefully the timing is close.
Also I have been attempting to identify which head bolt goes where.
When I originally started to take the head of my intention was to leave all the bolts in the head but more than half
of them unscrewed from the head instead of the nut unscrewing from the stud.
Needless to say they are all over the place and not in order.
You may say well so what but the sizes or lengths in this case are also all over the place.
The biggest issue I have as most know is the chunk broken off the front of the block.
I have still to deal with this, though looking at the original head gasket, that wasn't the area the gasket blew out.
My workshop manual doesn't say anywhere in it the ft/lbs torque settings.
The only useful thing I could find is the order of bolts to be tightened.
Never mind, if I find the torque settings of the 600 series engine that would have to be a starting basis.
The other critical factor is getting the timing right with the head going back on the block.
Pictured are the hellical gears from both the head and the block.
The engine is locked into top dead centre (TDC) and if you look on the head I have painted some yellow on the gear
and the body as to make sure these 2 lines stay put when I align the head with the block.

Norman Julian
Waterpump in position behind the generator.



Norman Julian
This area is ready for the radiator to go back in.

Phil Steele
Nice to see some posts from you Norm.
It's all coming along nicely ☺️

Norman Julian 26th Aug
Today I spent 4 hrs on cleaning up this head again.
A few years ago I took it to be cleaned professionally.
Checking the underside properly I was happy to see the valves has very little carbon layers.
What took the most amount of time was the water galleries.
Just like the block there was chunks of carbon and rust from the head.
Most of the round holes on the bottom had corrosion on the edges.
The loose pieces needed to be removed so I used a counter drill to round it true again.
It seemed like I was never going to finish, but now after cleaning the head on the bottom it is ready to go back on.
The other thing was to work out which head bolts go where.
I renewed 8 bolts some time ago.
I also cleaned out all bolt holes so as to not drag foreign rubbish down onto and under onto the head gasket.
This as you can see is an overhead cam engine with a decompressor lever.
After I have done this I have to deal with the damaged piece on the block.

Norman Julian 26th Aug
What I didn't mention and it is my greatest fear is that the last time this head was taken off that the head wasn't toyed with.
I'm just assuming that the head and the timing line is correct but, if you install the head and the timing is out you can undo a
plate in the front of the head and undo all the bolts and move the cam shaft around and leave those helical gears in position.
That is why before you disassemble an engine you put the engine at top dead centre and than mark the gears.
I didn't do that.
Let's hope the head wasn't touched and left at factory specs.

Norman Julian
If you look at the back face of the gear you can see a scribed line.
That is from the factory and that is the timing line.
It is supposed to be parallel to the top of the head.
Putting this head back on the block those gears have to mesh with the gear on the block.
When the engine is top dead centre and you place the head on the block with this line in the correct position,
in theory the timing of these 2 parts should be correct.